The Custom Process

Paper patterns are created and then stored on a sophisticated CAD (computer assisted design) system, which has greatly increased the consistency of work.

The designer’s table. This is where the “eye” begins to draw lines and make cuts. Tools used: tape measures, straight and curved rulers, drafting square, graphite chalk, and a bottle of scotch (for inspiration).

The designer’s table. This is where the “eye” begins to draw lines and make cuts. Tools used: tape measures, straight and curved rulers, drafting square, graphite chalk, and a bottle of scotch (for inspiration).

A pattern for a jacket being laid out by CAD. CAD considers cloth and design to maximize pattern matching. The size of patterned fabrics is also calculated to minimize cloth usage.

A pattern for a jacket being laid out by CAD. CAD considers cloth and design to maximize pattern matching. The size of patterned fabrics is also calculated to minimize cloth usage.

Spreading the cloth for cutting.

Spreading the cloth for cutting.

Hand-sewn armholes and shoulders. This artisan detail is reserved for only the great manufacturers. This technique makes the entire armhole and shoulder feel better and lay cleaner and more crisply.

Numerous pressing operations are dedicated to only one area of the garment. Here you can see collars, bodies, and sleeves.

Constant inspections during the manufacturing process help ensure quality is maintained from start to finish.

Constant inspections during the manufacturing process help ensure quality is maintained from start to finish.

The best use genuine water buffalo horn buttons. The “blonds” are the rarest kind of these buttons. No two buttons have the same grain!

In the final inspection a quality supervisor checks for the proper execution of the initial idea.